E30 series BMW 3

since 1983-1994 of release

Repair and car operation



E30 BMW
+ 1. Maintenance instruction
+ 2. Maintenance
+ 3. Engine
+ 4. Cooling system
+ 5. Heating and ventilation
+ 6. Fuel system
+ 7. Exhaust system
+ 8. Transmissions
+ 9. Coupling
+ 10. Brake system
+ 11. Running gear
+ 12. Body
+ 13. Electric equipment
- 14. Good advice
   14.2. Changed numbers
   14.3. Purchase of the old car or mysterious set of figures and letters
   14.4. Durability of the car
   14.5. About parallelism of bridges of the car and the trailer
   14.6. Preparation of the car for winter
   14.7. Rule 35
   14.8. Choice of the second-hand car
   14.9. Engine oils
   14.10. That it is necessary to know, changing oil
   14.11. Emergence in deposit oil
   14.12 whether. It is possible to mix import oils?
   14.13. "Eats" much, but silently goes
   14.14. It is rather live, than it is dead …
   14.15. It is not got - good advice
   14.16. Visit to car-care center
   14.17. A gear belt for a drive of the mechanism of a gazoraspredeleniye
   14.18. Wear of pistons
   14.19. Valves
   14.20. Bearings of engines
   14.21. Engine pollution
   14.22. As the conditioner works and what to do, if it failed
   14.23. Conditioner: not only "pluses", but also "minuses"
   14.24. Rules of service of the conditioner
   14.25. It is not necessary to stir antifreeze with antifreeze …
   14.26. That it is necessary to know upon purchase of the air filter
   14.27. Engine overheat
   14.28. That it is necessary to know to the owner of the car with the injector engine
   14.29. Accumulator
   14.30. Possible malfunctions of the storage battery
   14.31. What to do with the failed generator
   14.32. The belt is guilty, and we blame the generator
   14.33. Catalyst
   14.34. Rub in one - or how to save the catalyst
   14.35. Probuksovochka
   14.36. Features of operation of brake system
   14.37. Malfunctions of brake system
   14.38. Brake liquids
   14.39. ABS: natural choice
   14.40. Rims
   14.41. We update rims
   14.42. Scheme of marking of a car tire
   14.43. Metal corrosion
   14.44. Automake-up
   14.45. What creaks?
   14.46. Hatch
   14.47. Safety cushion: troubles or pleasures?
   14.48. We fit well?
   14.49. Anticreeping "immunodeficiency"
   14.50. Why headlights grow dull
   14.51. "Galogenki"
   14.52. About the correct adjustment of headlights
   14.53. Electric motor
   14.54. From change of places "composed" changes nothing?


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14.7. Rule 35

GENERAL INFORMATION

Engine oil can be changed by winter. And whether it is necessary? Certainly and, if now in a case of your car oil summer laps: the morozets will strike and to lap it will cease, will freeze. There will be problems. But if you use all-weather oil, to change it only because winter is at hand, not so surely. The main thing not to go by one oil filling more long than the put. It is told in the service book of the car to change oil through N of one thousand km of run – change through N.

Cheap but good or expensively da lovely?

Immemorial question: mineral water or synthetics? Synthetic – ftoruglerodny, diefirny, silicone, polialkilenglikolevy – on the properties, of course, it is better some oil mineral (oil). First, at synthetic the hardening temperature is much lower. Secondly, with temperature change at them viscosity less changes, and that is very important, they are not diluted at very strong heating. Thirdly, they evaporate less and burn out. Fourthly, form less deposits polluting the engine: deposits, varnishes and шламов (ointments). Fifthly, their resource of times in five above, than mineral. Sixthly, when using synthetics less mechanical losses in the engine and wear of details. The list of advantages can be continued still points on ten. One only a shortcoming – the price. Synthetic is more expensive mineral in three-five times. Serious blow on a purse. If synthetics is heavy for a pocket, and you essentially do not recognize mineral water, buy semi-synthetics is quite reasonable compromise.

In a consolation house-keepers should notice that mineral oils in itself are not so bad. If synthetics it is expensive to da lovely, mineral water – cheap but good. A century went by mineral water and, probably, even a century will go. By the way, in the old car guzzling oil to fill in synthetics it is not meaningful: oil and money take off for an exhaust pipe; on a dolivka it is possible to be ruined. Remember that to mix mineral oils with synthetic it is impossible. To change mineral water for synthetics (and on the contrary) it is possible without problems, it is necessary only between them minutes twenty to drive the engine on special flushing oil.

Read from 35

Oils classify on two nominations: on viscosity and on quality. Viscosity. The international scale of SAE provides 11 classes of viscosity. Six winter: 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W and 25W (W – winter, winter). And five summer: 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60. All-weather grades designate double marking, for example, 15W-40 or 10W-30, etc.

Not to make the wrong choice oils by winter, it is useful to remember a so-called rule 35. It is necessary to subtract a winter index of viscosity from number 35 – receive limiting temperature of a prokachivayemost of oil. For example, oil 10W-40 (the summer index of 40 roles does not play) keeps fluidity to-25 degrees on Celsius (35-10 = 25).

The rule 35 is ideally applicable to mineral water, but, unfortunately, is suitable for a synthetics assessment a little – it has absolutely special vyazkostno-temperature characteristics. So, for example, synthetics of a class 10W-40 can be calculated and on-50. In general, synthetics is always colder some mineral water of the same class of viscosity, therefore with it to be mistaken (and to freeze) it is almost impossible. Quality. In our market it often specify on the American scale of API. Oils share on category: S–for petrol engines and C – for diesel engines. If oil universal (suits both that, and another), it is designated by a fractional index, where in numerator – preferable type of the engine. Following S or the C letter (or the letter with figure) means actually quality of oil. Today on API petrol oils of a level of quality of SH and SJ are the best; the diesel – CG4 and CH4.

Europe now even more often uses a new scale of quality – ACEA. On it petrol oils are designated by a letter A (the highest on quality – A3), and oils for automobile diesel engines – a letter B (the highest – B3).

Some councils. In the worn-out engine where in a finger through which fuel gets to a case, oil viscosity on a class above the recommended is better to pour gaps. Similarly – if the engine is inclined to overheating. The class of quality of oil for any motors new and old, should be not lower stipulated in the service book. Above – it is possible (therefore we and specified only the highest classes).

And main thing. Buy oil only in shops with good reputation. Our wild market abounds with a skilly in the beautiful jars, made it is not known where also whom. Do not peck on invitingly cheap. Free cheese, as we know, happens only in mousetraps

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