E30 series BMW 3

since 1983-1994 of release

Repair and car operation



E30 BMW
+ 1. Maintenance instruction
+ 2. Maintenance
+ 3. Engine
+ 4. Cooling system
+ 5. Heating and ventilation
+ 6. Fuel system
+ 7. Exhaust system
+ 8. Transmissions
+ 9. Coupling
+ 10. Brake system
+ 11. Running gear
+ 12. Body
+ 13. Electric equipment
- 14. Good advice
   14.2. Changed numbers
   14.3. Purchase of the old car or mysterious set of figures and letters
   14.4. Durability of the car
   14.5. About parallelism of bridges of the car and the trailer
   14.6. Preparation of the car for winter
   14.7. Rule 35
   14.8. Choice of the second-hand car
   14.9. Engine oils
   14.10. That it is necessary to know, changing oil
   14.11. Emergence in deposit oil
   14.12 whether. It is possible to mix import oils?
   14.13. "Eats" much, but silently goes
   14.14. It is rather live, than it is dead …
   14.15. It is not got - good advice
   14.16. Visit to car-care center
   14.17. A gear belt for a drive of the mechanism of a gazoraspredeleniye
   14.18. Wear of pistons
   14.19. Valves
   14.20. Bearings of engines
   14.21. Engine pollution
   14.22. As the conditioner works and what to do, if it failed
   14.23. Conditioner: not only "pluses", but also "minuses"
   14.24. Rules of service of the conditioner
   14.25. It is not necessary to stir antifreeze with antifreeze …
   14.26. That it is necessary to know upon purchase of the air filter
   14.27. Engine overheat
   14.28. That it is necessary to know to the owner of the car with the injector engine
   14.29. Accumulator
   14.30. Possible malfunctions of the storage battery
   14.31. What to do with the failed generator
   14.32. The belt is guilty, and we blame the generator
   14.33. Catalyst
   14.34. Rub in one - or how to save the catalyst
   14.35. Probuksovochka
   14.36. Features of operation of brake system
   14.37. Malfunctions of brake system
   14.38. Brake liquids
   14.39. ABS: natural choice
   14.40. Rims
   14.41. We update rims
   14.42. Scheme of marking of a car tire
   14.43. Metal corrosion
   14.44. Automake-up
   14.45. What creaks?
   14.46. Hatch
   14.47. Safety cushion: troubles or pleasures?
   14.48. We fit well?
   14.49. Anticreeping "immunodeficiency"
   14.50. Why headlights grow dull
   14.51. "Galogenki"
   14.52. About the correct adjustment of headlights
   14.53. Electric motor
   14.54. From change of places "composed" changes nothing?



14.2. Changed numbers

GENERAL INFORMATION

It is possible to "calculate" on characteristic signs. Buying in the market the second-hand car, especially by proxy, it is easy to catch the car with interrupted numbers. Recommendations of experts will help to be saved from such trouble.

Theory. If you decided to get a second-hand foreign car and chose concrete model, try to collect in advance about it information maximum. It is better to make all this, having examined similar model in salon which trades in new cars. First of all find out, where there should be identification number (VIN). At the car can be additional VIN овские stickers (are carried out as transfers), – learn, where they take place.

Practice. So, you start survey of the chosen car. It should be begun with check of a condition of a paint and varnish covering about identification numbers. It should not on color and the invoice to differ from a covering on inside of a luggage carrier, a cowl, a motor compartment. A soft surface (there is a deformation trace even from a nail), begin to flow paints and unevenness of its drawing – all this testifies that the place where there is identification number, was recoloured. And repaint hides either failure consequences, or traces of change of number. The covering near number can be rubbed a tampon moistened with solvent: if paint is dissolved at least partially, it is a sure sign of that it "not native".

Now it is direct about numbers and identification plates. If number is interrupted, there are characteristic signs of this operation: the metal surface is deformed, slightly convex or bent more often. At a handicraft way of thrashing the double contour is often appreciable; signs are not on one straight line, and "jump", at them various depth of cave-in; between letters or figures – intervals of different size. Special attention turn on identical signs. They should not differ from each other a form or in the sizes. One more important point: if on identical signs in numbers you noticed any characteristic – be sure that these signs not the factory. Firm number is put with a uniform stamp, "handicraftsman" for each figure or a letter uses a separate brand and repeats characteristic "mistake".

It is more difficult to reveal the "criminal" car when number is replaced together in a detail or that its part on which it is beaten out. As a rule, in this case number – factory. Therefore it is necessary to examine places of fastening of this detail to a body. Simple way of detection of such replacement there can be a prostukivaniye. You should guard, if a sound at a prostukivaniye deaf, "wooden" or jingling. It is necessary to remember that in cars separate parts of a body fasten a method of contact welding. Junctions usually represent points in diameter of 5-6 mm. If in places of fastening of a "number" detail to a body there are traces of other type of welding, and their surface also are deformed – means, the detail is fixed on a body not in the factory way.

At survey of the engine pay attention to a platform with number: it should be equal, and signs on it are beaten out accurately and brightly, without double contours. By the way, the platform is pierced on the milling machine from which there are traces in the form of polukruzhiya. They are well visible even at strong corrosion.

The described signs are rather simple for revealing even to the nonprofessional. There are also others, but they can be revealed only by experts. To them also it is necessary to address, if you still had doubts.